Shorts Brewing Company is rapidly gaining a strong following among Michigan beer geeks over the past couple years as their production has moved well into a couple thousand barrels per year, well beyond the hundred or so brewed in their first year. Founded by Joe Short in 2004, the company has become a family affair as his now wife Leah runs the deli and food portion of the business and Joe concentrates on sales and production as they’ve expanded from their original hardware store into a production facility.

Located in the small northern Michigan resort town of Bellaire, near Torch Lake, it’s pretty much “in the middle of nowhere” but has, nonetheless, managed to gain a foothold throughout the north and west sides of the state and beyond. Their beers are bold, passionate and flavorful and their pub and live music scene is rollicking, particularly in the summer season.

While I’ve always enjoyed their beers, I’d never really “reviewed” one as they never tend to be much for style accuracy. Heck, their offerings are typically tough to actually even define, much less get into style.

Their Pontius Road Pilsner is one of those beers. Offered on draft only, the PRP is described as “true American pilsner,” which is somewhat akin to Miller Lite’s claim, albeit in a completely different direction and for completely different reasons.

It’s does pour pale and clear, but it strikes me as more of a helles than a pils, although it’s flowery enough to even doubt the lager yeast. It’s very mildly hopped, with little of the crispness one might expect in a pils. The body is sweet and full, with a gorgeous full white head. There is a mildly dry finish and, unfortunately, a hint of DMS, although nothing more than a Rolling Rock would consider distinct.

As one of their tamer offerings, this would make a great session beer and pair nicely with almost any tomato dish, especially anything highly seasoned or spicy.

While not within style, this is nonetheless a very enjoyable brew and is recommended with a solid three mugs.

Reviewed by Rings on June 28, 2010.

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