Chicago, by far the largest city in the Midwest, and once a craft beer wasteland, is now pooping out new breweries like a dog that had one too many cans of turducken over Thanksgiving. Where there was only Piece Brewpub and the now-Anheuser Busch-owned Goose Island, today are Haymarket Pub and Brewery, Revolution Brewing, Finch’s Beer Co., 5 Rabbit Brewery, and Argus Brewery, just to throw out the ones that immediately come to mind.

One of the vanguard of these new wave of breweries and brewpubs is Metropolitan Brewing, located in the Ravenswood neighborhood of Chicago. Unlike most newer craft breweries, Metropolitan has eschewed brewing hop-centric ales and specializes in producing German-style lagers. Of course, every brewery has one—or more—exceptions when it comes to brewing philosophy, and one of Metropolitan’s is Iron Works, described as an “assertively hoppy” ale, and happens to be tonight’s featured beer.

Iron Works pours into the glass a beautiful deep copper and boasts a thick crown of ivory-colored foam. The smells are strong but clean biscuity malt interspersed with peppery hops. A little bit of sulfur swirls in the background.

Like the nose, the taste is initially malty but almost lager-like, it being so clean that you could almost call it dry. This carries all the way through the light-to-medium body, culminating in a short, pleasantly spicy finish.

Although not as “assertively hoppy” as advertised (then again, maybe it is, for German-style lager lovers), this one is nevertheless yummy. Tasty and easy to drink, it’s one of those brews that you can keep stocked in your fridge year-round, suitable for just about any occasion. Even if that occasion is petting an overly pooping dog. Very nicely done.

Reviewed by Eddie Glick on December 28, 2011.

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